Short answer
A commonly cited pattern for wood structural panel wall sheathing (plywood or OSB) is nails 6 inches on center along the panel edges and 12 inches on center at intermediate supports (the studs in the middle of the panel). That is a typical baseline, not a universal rule. Your local building code, the panel manufacturer, and any engineered shear wall or high-wind design can require something different, so check the plans and your local building department before you nail.
Standard spacing
- Panel edges: about 6 inches on center along the framing that supports the panel edges.
- Field (intermediate studs): about 12 inches on center.
- Edge distance: keep nails back from the panel edge, commonly given as about 3/8 inch, so the panel and framing do not split.
- Panel gap: leave a small gap, commonly 1/8 inch, between panels to allow for expansion when they take on moisture. Follow the panel maker’s instructions.
These numbers match guidance widely published by wood panel associations and building code references, but confirm them for your panel thickness, stud spacing and region.
Nail type and size
- Common choices include 8d nails (about 2-3/8 inches long), either common or ring-shank, depending on the code and panel thickness. Local codes may specify a particular type and size.
- The nail should reach well into the stud. A figure of about 1-1/2 inches of penetration into the framing is often quoted, but check the code for your panel.
- Drive nails flush with the surface. Overdriving, where the head crushes into the panel, reduces holding power and can weaken the connection.
Fasteners that hold the panel to the frame are structural. Do not substitute drywall screws or other fasteners unless the code or manufacturer explicitly allows it. See wood screws vs drywall screws for why.
When closer spacing is required
Standard spacing is the baseline for ordinary walls. Some walls are designed to resist wind or earthquake forces (shear walls and braced wall panels), and their plans can call for tighter nail spacing, larger nails or specific panel layouts. Closer spacing, such as at panel edges, can significantly change how much load the wall can resist. If your plans show a shear wall schedule, follow it exactly. If you are building or repairing in a high-wind or seismic area, the engineer’s drawings or the local building department decide the nailing, not a general guide.
Galvanized nails
Should you use galvanized nails for framing? Galvanized or other corrosion-resistant fasteners are commonly used where nails will be exposed to moisture, in contact with treated lumber, or near the exterior, and some codes and siding makers require them. Standard bright nails are used in many dry interior framing situations. If you are unsure, use the corrosion-resistant option for exterior work and check the requirements for any pressure-treated lumber, since treatment chemicals can corrode some fasteners.
What goes under siding
Exterior walls usually have sheathing on the studs, most often OSB or plywood, sometimes rigid foam or other panels, covered with a weather-resistive barrier such as house wrap, and then siding (see residential exterior wall construction layers). Wood structural panels can also serve as a nail base for siding and trim. The panel association APA states that siding can be fastened to continuously sheathed walls if fasteners penetrate the sheathing by at least 1/4 inch and follow the fastening schedule, though the siding maker’s instructions control. If you swap fasteners, they should have at least the same corrosion resistance and head size the manufacturer calls for.
Roof sheathing questions
Roof sheathing has its own requirements, and thickness depends on rafter or truss spacing, snow and wind loads, and local code. 7/16 inch OSB appears in some designs, but whether it is acceptable for a particular roof depends on those factors and on your code. Ask your building department or check the span rating stamped on the panel. Do not rely on a general rule for roof work. Roof framing and sheathing work is also a fall hazard, so use proper fall protection or hire a roofing professional; roofing and siding cost gives a sense of what that involves.
When to call a professional
- You are altering, repairing or adding to walls that are part of the structural system or a shear wall.
- Your area has high wind, hurricane or seismic requirements.
- The plans or permit specify particular nailing.
- You find rot, water damage or damaged framing behind sheathing.
- You are working on a roof or at height.
A licensed contractor, structural engineer or your local building department can confirm the exact fastener and spacing for your project. For interior wall materials, see drywall for high humidity or the other guides in this section.