What replumbing a house involves
Replumbing, also called repiping, means replacing the water supply pipes throughout a house, not just one leaking section. The plumber removes or abandons the old supply lines and installs new ones to the fixtures, then reconnects them to the main shutoff and water heater. Drain lines are a separate system and are only replaced if they are also failing.
Signs you may need it
- Repeated leaks or pinhole leaks in different spots
- Discolored, rusty or metallic-tasting water that persists (see light brown water from the faucet)
- Consistently low water pressure that is not caused by a single fixture or the city supply (see how to fix low water pressure)
- Pipe materials with a poor track record, such as galvanized steel that has corroded, or certain plastic pipe types some manufacturers have had problems with
- Visible corrosion, flaking or bulging on exposed pipes
- A very old house with original plumbing, including the possibility of lead pipe or lead solder, which is a health risk
See signs of a leaking pipe for how to check these. A plumber can also camera-inspect some lines or pressure-test the system to see how widespread the problem is.
Alternatives to a full repipe
A full replumb is not always necessary. Depending on the problem, a plumber may suggest:
- Repairing or replacing a single failed section
- Replacing only the damaged part, such as a corroded run in a basement
- Replacing the main service line, which is a separate job (see what to do about a leaking water main)
- Treating the cause, for example high water pressure or aggressive water chemistry
Ask for a second opinion if you are told you need a whole-house repipe after a single leak.
The process, step by step
Details vary by plumber and house, but a typical job looks like this:
- Inspection and quote. The plumber looks at the system, counts fixtures and decides on routing and materials.
- Permit. Many areas require a permit and an inspection for repiping. Your plumber normally arranges this.
- Planning for access. They decide where to open walls or ceilings, or use crawlspaces, attics and basements to reach pipes.
- Water shutoff. The water is off for part of each workday while the old lines are removed and new ones connected. Ask how long to expect.
- Installing new pipe. The plumber runs new lines, typically in PEX, copper or CPVC, and connects fixtures, valves and the water heater. See copper vs plastic water pipe for how those materials compare.
- Pressure test and inspection. The new system is tested for leaks, and the inspector signs off where required.
- Patching. Holes cut in walls need drywall repair and paint (see level 4 vs level 5 drywall finish for how smooth the patches need to be). Ask whether this is included or you need a separate contractor.
What affects cost
Quotes depend on many things:
- Pipe material. PEX is generally less expensive than copper, with CPVC in between.
- Number of fixtures and bathrooms, and the pipe lengths.
- House size and layout, including the number of stories.
- Accessibility. A slab foundation, finished walls or tight crawlspaces cost more than open framing.
- Permits and inspections.
- Water heater, shutoff valve or pressure regulator replacement if needed.
- Drywall, paint and finish repairs.
- Local labor rates and the soil or access conditions for any underground work.
How much does it cost?
Costs vary widely by region, house design and material, so no single number fits all homes. Published estimates for whole-house repipes commonly span a wide range, from a few thousand dollars for a small, easy-to-access home to well beyond that for larger or harder-to-access houses. For a 1,500 square foot house, the quote will depend most on bathrooms, fixtures, access and whether walls must be opened and repaired. The most dependable way to learn your cost is to get at least two or three written, itemized quotes from licensed plumbers.
Does homeowners insurance cover it?
Generally, homeowners insurance does not pay to replace pipes that are worn out or corroded, because that is treated as maintenance or wear and tear. Policies often can help with sudden, accidental water damage, such as a pipe that bursts and floods a room, but coverage varies. Some policies pay for repairing the damage but not the broken pipe itself. Read your policy and ask your agent, and document any leak damage with photos before cleaning up.
Can you do it yourself?
A confident DIYer can replace short sections of pipe, particularly with push-fit or PEX systems, where local rules allow. A whole-house repipe is a different scale of job. It involves permits, code rules, correct sizing, pressure testing, water heater connections and risk of hidden water damage if a joint fails. Many jurisdictions require a licensed plumber for this kind of work or limit what homeowners may do. If you consider doing part of it yourself, check your local rules first and have the work inspected.
Be careful when opening walls in older homes. Some old insulation, plaster, flooring and pipe wrap can contain asbestos, and lead paint is possible in homes built before 1978 in the United States. If you suspect either, have materials tested and use a qualified professional before disturbing them.
The “135 rule”
There is no widely recognized plumbing standard commonly known as the 135 rule, and the phrase may refer to different things in different places. Do not rely on it for sizing or code compliance. Ask your plumber and local building department which rules apply to your project.
Choosing a plumber and comparing quotes
- Check that the plumber is licensed and insured, and ask for references.
- Get itemized written quotes showing materials, labor, permits and patching.
- Ask how long the water will be off and how the plumber protects floors and furniture.
- Ask about warranty on materials and workmanship.
- Be cautious with quotes that are far below the rest or that pressure you to sign quickly.